Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion. Show all posts

Monday, May 2, 2022

LACMA OPENS A CINEMATIC EXHIBIT ON ALEXANDER McQUEEN'S FASHION LEGACY

By José Alberto Hermosillo

LACMA PRESENTS A CINEMATIC EXHIBIT FOCUSING ON ALEXANDER McQUEEN

“Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind Mythos Muse” is the new eclectic, flashy, cinematic, and amusing LACMA exhibit dedicated to one of the most fabulous fashion designers of our time, Alexander McQueen. 

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Foto: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

The museography focuses on the artistry, creativity, and body of work of the prolific Scottish designer from 1990 to 2010.

LACMA’s buoyant exposition spotlights the dresses, fabrics, and accessories of the fashion virtuoso who killed himself in 2010 at the age of 39, right after the passing of his mother. 

The museum displays many classy McQueen garments from the Regina J. Drucker Collection, alongside other artworks from LACMA’s permanent collection.

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

McQueen founded his label in 1992. The four-time winner of the British Designer of the Year was chief designer at the Givenchy firm from 1996 to 2001. 

MacQueen’s fame flourished, making him the recipient of the International Designer of the Year award in 2003.

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Visiting the “Lee Alexander McQueen: Mind Mythos Muse” exhibit is an eye-opener and a unique opportunity for the people of Los Angeles to explore, admire, analyze, and understand Alexander McQueen’s legacy.

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

Lee Alexander McQueen at LACMA. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo. Festival in LA ©2022

The McQueen exhibition at LACMA is presented in the Resnick Pavilion and will be open to the public until October 9, 2022.

McQueen documentary poster. The film is available on Hulu and Prime Video

After going to LACMA’s installation, consider complementing the visit by watching at home on Hulu or Prime Video “McQueen,” a profound and bold documentary made in 2018 that focuses on the life of the controversial monster of fashion and design, Lee Alexander McQueen.

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Thursday, July 28, 2016

WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED: FASHION AND GLAMOUR DURING THE GOLDEN AGE OF HOLLYWOOD

By José Alberto Hermosillo
WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED

Hollywood would not have had a Golden Age without Orry-Kelly. "Women He's Undressed" is a fabulous and glamorous documentary about the life of one of Hollywood’s most outstanding costume designers. A milestone that involves everyone interested in fashion, costumes, and filmmaking.

 

“Women He’s Undressed” offers a personal look into the life, creations, and romance of the legendary Academy Award-winning Australian costume designer Orry-Kelly (“Some Like It Hot,” “Casablanca,” “An American in Paris”).


Women He’s Undressed

“Women He’s Undressed” is a well-researched documentary packed with incredible material no one thought existed. It features plenty of amazing footage of many films Orry-Kelly worked on, designing costumes for top movie stars and captivating audiences all over the world.

 

The interviews with directors, historians, celebrities, collectors, and close friends were thoughtfully arranged. They speak of Kelly’s work, talent, and friendship with admiration and great respect.


Women He’s Undressed

During Hollywood’s Golden Age, Orry-Kelly designed costumes for more than 282 movies. “Nothing makes you a better designer than practice.”

 

This documentary heavily focused on the details of the designer’s private life. At the time, it could have caused a major scandal. But how could he have a serious relationship or intimacy with someone while working on a set for 16 hours a day, 50 movies a year?

 
Women He’s Undressed
Director Gillian Armstrong. Photo by Tim Baure
 

Despite Orry-Kelly’s controversial life, director Gillian Armstrong maintained an elegant approach.


Orry-Kelly styled and undressed many actors and actresses, including Dolores Del Rio, Marilyn Monroe, Betty Davis, Ingrid Bergman, Betty Grable, Ava Gardner, Loretta Young, Angela Lansbury, Natalie Wood, and Jane Fonda.

 
Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

Orry-Kelly was one of the most fabulous costume designers of all time. He studied the stars’ anatomy, making them look striking by accentuating their best features with glamorous results.

 

Most of the wardrobes Kelly designed for movies featured bold colors, even when the film was in black and white. This is true for “Jezebel” and the famous dress Bette Davis wore, which emulated the “red dress” of “Gone with the Wind.” People assured me the dress appeared in color. 


Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video


Kelly’s visionary talent in storytelling was so effective that the wardrobe worn by the stars added authenticity and contributed to the film’s success.

 

As his popularity grew, Kelly became close friends with many stars.


Kelly’s designs were elegant, classy, stunning, and minimalist—similar to those from classic Western Oklahoma.


Women He’s Undressed
Veda Ann Borg and Orry-Kelly, CA 1937

Some of the dresses Kelly designed for Hollywood classics are now part of private collections and museums. Others have sold at auction for thousands of dollars.

Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

Orry-Kelly’s life became controversial when rumors about his affair with a famous Hollywood actor surfaced.

Women He’s Undressed
“Women He’s Undressed,” Orry-Kelly’s funeral cortege. Photo Prudence Upton

“He kept his secret to his grave, even though he had a big mouth.”

As a writer, Orry-Kelly’s book was never published, and the manuscript was lost. Witnesses said Orry detailed the most intimate moments with the love of his life, Cary Grant.

 
Women He’s Undressed
Darren Gilshenan playing Orry-Kelly with the Warner Bros. sign. Photo Prudence Upton


Initially, being gay in Hollywood wasn’t seen as a big deal. In 1930, the enforcement of the conservative Motion Picture Production Code brought significant changes to the industry.


As Cary Grant gained more fame, got married, and later divorced, Orry and Cary maintained an “on-and-off” relationship.


Key Francis, Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video
 

Orry-Kelly was sent to fight in World War II for the United States, despite being born in Australia. After returning, he had to start over, knocking on doors in Hollywood. Being alone allowed Kelly to create his best designs for many classic films, including Harvey, An American in Paris, Auntie Mame, The Sweet Bird of Youth, Gypsy, and Irma la Douce. “Woman He’s Undressed” is a docu-fiction piece that recreates intimate scenes connecting key moments in Orry-Kelly’s life, as if he were still alive. 


Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

The reconstruction was conducted by professional actors who depicted what could happen to Kelly’s mom and friends. This technique advanced the story, making the documentary more accessible and engaging.


Paradoxically, Orry-Kelly was a complete stranger in his homeland, Australia. The only person who remembered him was his mother.


“Woman He’s Undressed” is comparable to other great films about fashion and filmmakers, such as ‘The September Issue,” “Valentino, the Last Emperor,” “The Celluloid Closet,” and “The Kid Stays in the Picture.”


Director Gillian Armstrong with Actor Jane Fonda. Photo Anna Howard

Director Gillian Armstrong’s detailed work depicts Orry-Kelly as a vibrant and vulnerable human being. 

 

No matter what, Kelly’s spirit was never broken.

 

“Women He’s Undressed” highlights Kelly’s legacy as a key figure in Hollywood’s Golden Age of filmmaking.
Outfest, Women He’s Undressed
Outfest 2016, photo by José A Hermosillo. Copyrights Festival in LA, 2016
 

“Women He’s Undressed” was one of the best films shown at OUTFEST 2016!

 

“Women He’s Undressed” is an extraordinary work of art that can serve as a learning tool to help future generations appreciate the work of costume designers in the film industry.



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