A fabulous and glamorous documentary about the life of one of Hollywood’s most outstanding costume designers from the Golden Age.
It marks a milestone for everyone involved in fashion, costumes, and filmmaking.
“Women He’s Undressed” offers a personal look into the life, creations, and romance of the legendary Academy Award-winning Australian costume designer Orry-Kelly (“Some Like It Hot,” “Casablanca,” “An American in Paris”).
“Women He’s Undressed” is a well-researched documentary packed with incredible material no one thought existed. It features plenty of amazing footage of many films Orry-Kelly worked on, designing costumes for top movie stars and captivating audiences all over the world.
The interviews with directors, historians, celebrities, collectors, and close friends were thoughtfully arranged. They speak of Kelly’s work, talent, and friendship with admiration and great respect.
During Hollywood’s Golden Age, Orry-Kelly designed costumes for more than 282 movies. “Nothing makes you a better designer than practice.”
This documentary heavily focused on the details of the designer’s private life. At the time, it could have caused a major scandal. But how could he have a serious relationship or intimacy with someone when working on a set sixteen hours a day, 50 movies a year?
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Director Gillian Armstrong. Photo by Tim Baure |
Despite Orry-Kelly’s controversial life, director Gillian Armstrong maintained an elegant approach.
Orry-Kelly styled and undressed many actors and actresses, including Dolores Del Rio, Marilyn Monroe, Betty Davis, Ingrid Bergman, Betty Grable, Ava Gardner, Loretta Young, Angela Lansbury, Natalie Wood, and Jane Fonda.
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Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video |
Orry-Kelly was one of the most fabulous costume designers of all time. He studied the stars’ anatomy, making them look striking by accentuating their best features with glamorous results.
Most of the wardrobes Kelly designed for movies featured bold colors, even when the film was in black and white. This is true for “Jezebel” and the famous dress Bette Davis wore, which emulated the “red dress” of “Gone with the Wind.” People assured me the dress appeared in color.
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Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video |
Kelly’s visionary talent was so effective in storytelling that the wardrobe worn by the stars, the clothing, added authenticity and contributed to the film’s success.
As his popularity grew, Kelly became close friends with many stars.
Kelly’s designs were elegant, classy, stunning, and minimalist—similar to those from the classic Western Oklahoma.
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Veda Ann Borg and Orry-Kelly, CA 1937 |
Some of the dresses Kelly designed for Hollywood classics are now part of private collections and museums. Others have sold at auction for thousands of dollars.
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Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video |
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“Women He’s Undressed,” Orry-Kelly’s funeral cortege. Photo Prudence Upton |
“He kept his secret to his grave, even though he had a big mouth.”
As a writer, Orry-Kelly’s book was never published, and the manuscript was lost. Witnesses said Orry detailed the most intimate moments with the love of his life, Cary Grant.
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Darren Gilshenan playing Orry-Kelly with the Warner Bros. sign. Photo Prudence Upton |
Initially, being gay in Hollywood wasn’t seen as a big deal. In 1930, the enforcement of the conservative Motion Picture Production Code brought significant changes to the industry.
As Cary Grant gained more fame, got married, and later divorced, Orry and Cary maintained an “on and off” relationship.
Orry-Kelly was sent to fight in World War II for the United States, despite being born in Australia. After returning, he had to start over and knock on doors in Hollywood. Being alone allowed Kelly to create his best designs for many classic films, including Harvey, An American in Paris, Auntie Mame, The Sweet Bird of Youth, Gypsy, and Irma la Douce. “Woman He’s Undressed” is a docu-fiction piece that recreates some intimate scenes connecting key moments of Orry-Kelly’s life as if he were still alive.
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Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video |
The reconstruction was conducted by professional actors who depicted what could happen to Kelly’s mom and friends. This technique advanced the story, making the documentary more accessible and engaging.
Paradoxically, Orry-Kelly was a complete stranger in his homeland, Australia. The only person who remembered him was his mother.
“Woman He’s Undressed” is comparable to other great films about fashion and filmmakers, such as ‘The September Issue,” “Valentino, the Last Emperor,” “The Celluloid Closet,” and “The Kid Stays in the Picture.”
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Director Gillian Armstrong with Actor Jane Fonda. Photo Anna Howard |
Director Gillian Armstrong’s detailed work depicts Orry-Kelly as a vibrant and vulnerable human being.
No matter what, Kelly’s spirit was never broken.
“Women He’s Undressed” highlights Kelly’s legacy as a key part of Hollywood’s Golden Age filmmaking.
“Women He’s Undressed” was one of the best films shown at OUTFEST 2016!
“Women He’s Undressed” is an extraordinary work of art that can serve as a learning tool to appreciate the work of costume designers in the film industry for future generations.
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