Thursday, July 28, 2016

WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED: FASHION AND GLAMOUR DURING THE GOLDEN AGE OF HOLLYWOOD

By José Alberto Hermosillo
WOMEN HE’S UNDRESSED

A fabulous and glamorous documentary about the life of one of Hollywood’s most outstanding costume designers from the Golden Age.

 

It marks a milestone for everyone involved in fashion, costumes, and filmmaking.

 

“Women He’s Undressed” offers a personal look into the life, creations, and romance of the legendary Academy Award-winning Australian costume designer Orry-Kelly (“Some Like It Hot,” “Casablanca,” “An American in Paris”).


Women He’s Undressed

“Women He’s Undressed” is a well-researched documentary packed with incredible material no one thought existed. It features plenty of amazing footage of many films Orry-Kelly worked on, designing costumes for top movie stars and captivating audiences all over the world.

 

The interviews with directors, historians, celebrities, collectors, and close friends were thoughtfully arranged. They speak of Kelly’s work, talent, and friendship with admiration and great respect.


Women He’s Undressed

During Hollywood’s Golden Age, Orry-Kelly designed costumes for more than 282 movies. “Nothing makes you a better designer than practice.”

 

This documentary heavily focused on the details of the designer’s private life. At the time, it could have caused a major scandal. But how could he have a serious relationship or intimacy with someone when working on a set sixteen hours a day, 50 movies a year?

 
Women He’s Undressed
Director Gillian Armstrong. Photo by Tim Baure
 

Despite Orry-Kelly’s controversial life, director Gillian Armstrong maintained an elegant approach.


Orry-Kelly styled and undressed many actors and actresses, including Dolores Del Rio, Marilyn Monroe, Betty Davis, Ingrid Bergman, Betty Grable, Ava Gardner, Loretta Young, Angela Lansbury, Natalie Wood, and Jane Fonda.

 
Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

Orry-Kelly was one of the most fabulous costume designers of all time. He studied the stars’ anatomy, making them look striking by accentuating their best features with glamorous results.

 

Most of the wardrobes Kelly designed for movies featured bold colors, even when the film was in black and white. This is true for “Jezebel” and the famous dress Bette Davis wore, which emulated the “red dress” of “Gone with the Wind.” People assured me the dress appeared in color. 


Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video


Kelly’s visionary talent was so effective in storytelling that the wardrobe worn by the stars, the clothing, added authenticity and contributed to the film’s success.

 

As his popularity grew, Kelly became close friends with many stars.


Kelly’s designs were elegant, classy, stunning, and minimalist—similar to those from the classic Western Oklahoma.


Women He’s Undressed
Veda Ann Borg and Orry-Kelly, CA 1937

Some of the dresses Kelly designed for Hollywood classics are now part of private collections and museums. Others have sold at auction for thousands of dollars.

Women He’s Undressed
Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

Orry-Kelly’s life became controversial when rumors about his affair with a famous Hollywood actor surfaced.

Women He’s Undressed
“Women He’s Undressed,” Orry-Kelly’s funeral cortege. Photo Prudence Upton

“He kept his secret to his grave, even though he had a big mouth.”

As a writer, Orry-Kelly’s book was never published, and the manuscript was lost. Witnesses said Orry detailed the most intimate moments with the love of his life, Cary Grant.

 
Women He’s Undressed
Darren Gilshenan playing Orry-Kelly with the Warner Bros. sign. Photo Prudence Upton


Initially, being gay in Hollywood wasn’t seen as a big deal. In 1930, the enforcement of the conservative Motion Picture Production Code brought significant changes to the industry.


As Cary Grant gained more fame, got married, and later divorced, Orry and Cary maintained an “on and off” relationship.


Key Francis, Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video
 

Orry-Kelly was sent to fight in World War II for the United States, despite being born in Australia. After returning, he had to start over and knock on doors in Hollywood. Being alone allowed Kelly to create his best designs for many classic films, including Harvey, An American in Paris, Auntie Mame, The Sweet Bird of Youth, Gypsy, and Irma la Douce. “Woman He’s Undressed” is a docu-fiction piece that recreates some intimate scenes connecting key moments of Orry-Kelly’s life as if he were still alive. 


Photo courtesy of Wolfe Video

The reconstruction was conducted by professional actors who depicted what could happen to Kelly’s mom and friends. This technique advanced the story, making the documentary more accessible and engaging.


Paradoxically, Orry-Kelly was a complete stranger in his homeland, Australia. The only person who remembered him was his mother.


“Woman He’s Undressed” is comparable to other great films about fashion and filmmakers, such as ‘The September Issue,” “Valentino, the Last Emperor,” “The Celluloid Closet,” and “The Kid Stays in the Picture.”


Director Gillian Armstrong with Actor Jane Fonda. Photo Anna Howard

Director Gillian Armstrong’s detailed work depicts Orry-Kelly as a vibrant and vulnerable human being. 

 

No matter what, Kelly’s spirit was never broken.

 

“Women He’s Undressed” highlights Kelly’s legacy as a key part of Hollywood’s Golden Age filmmaking.


Outfest, Women He’s Undressed
Outfest 2016, photo by José A Hermosillo. Copyrights Festival in LA, 2016
 

“Women He’s Undressed” was one of the best films shown at OUTFEST 2016!

 

“Women He’s Undressed” is an extraordinary work of art that can serve as a learning tool to appreciate the work of costume designers in the film industry for future generations.



Related Articles:
Cassandro: From a Mexican Wrestler to a Superhero in Drag
Llyn Foulkes One Man Band: The Passion of an Artist Never Ends
Joyland: A Cinematic Rejoice from Pakistan
The New Girlfriend: A New Trend in Transgender Cinema
A Fantastic Woman: Love, Grief, and Compassion in Santiago
Two of Us: Juliette & Juliette of Montpellier
And Then We Danced: Folk, Love & Pride in Georgia 
Tove: Bounded by Art, Love, and The “Moomins”
HOOKED: YOUNG GAY AND HOMELESS IN AMERICA
You’re Killing Me: Dating a Serial Killer with Humor 
DANCER: THE UKRAINIAN BILLY ELLIOT’ OF ‘TAKE ME TO CHURCH’
Summer of Soul: The Music Fest that Gave Freedom to Thousands
Under the Volcano: The Golden Era of a Recording Studio in the Caribbean
Amy, The Brief Existence of A Shining Star
How to Win at Checkers (Every Time): A Nostalgic Tale of Brotherhood & Tolerance
Cezanne and I: An Extraordinary Journey of Art and Friendship
Elle: The New “Basic Instinct” with a “French Twist”
Neruda: Runaway Poet
20 BEST GAEL GARCIA BERNAL MOVIES
The Best Film Festival Posters of 2017
Endless Poetry: The Atypical Universe of Alejandro Jodorowsky
Sonia Braga Receives a Lifetime Achievement Award in Hollywood
25 Great Foreign Films that Did Not Get Distribution in US Theaters
Hashtag #OscarsSoFabulous

 Copyright © 2016 Festival in LA

Friday, July 1, 2016

Argentina: is more than Tango in the New Documentary Directed by Carlos Saura

By José Alberto Hermosillo

“Argentina” is 
an exquisite and delightful documentary with great art and beauty.

The magical journey to the South American country approaches us to its music, rhythms, dance, and folklore. It is an extraordinary voyage that starts with the enlightenment of “The Muleteers/Los muleteros” who, with their mules and horses, worked the Andean region spreading those rhythms.



Influenced by Africa, Italy, Poland, Brazil, and Los Andes, Argentinean music has many styles and different rhythms, known as samba, samba alegre, vidala, chacarera, malambos, valsecitos, coplas, and folklorist.  

The spectacular theatrical staging in the film showcases those dances with excellent choreography.

In dancing, the necessary steps of classic valet are infused with modern jazz and placed together in Argentinean folklore.


Los Chalchaleros performed the most affecting traditional songs in their original and/or current versions.


“Argentina” features some of the most popular folk singers, such as Mercedes SosaEl Chaqueño Palavecino, Soledad Pastorutti (“La Sole”), Liliana Herrero, Luis Salinas, Jaime Torres, Jairo, and the folk group Metabombo.

The dancers include Ballet Nuevo Arte Nativo de Koki and Pajarín Saavedra.

In the film, it is beautiful to see a younger generation pay a heartfelt tribute to one of the world’s most significant promoters of Argentinean music, Mercedes Sosa, with one of her greatest hits, “Changes, Everything Changes/Cambia, todo Cambia.”  


The Malambo tableaux is epic!


The legendary Spanish director Carlos Saura, “Cría Cuervos” (1976) and “Ay Carmela” (1990), among other magnificent films, delivers his fifth musical work: “Carmen,” “Flamenco,” “Tango,” “Fados,” and now “Argentina.”

Saura’s cinematic vision continues exploring the telluric connection between song and soul, music and movements, color and shapes.

The accomplished Spanish director in “Argentina” must translate the music, dance, and moves to the screen in a cinematic feast of color and energy.

“Argentina” is passion, “Argentina” es amor, "Argentina" es mucho corazón.

ARGENTINA TRAILER

Related Articles:

25 Great Foreign Films that Did Not Get Distribution in US Theaters

“Cezanne and I” An Extraordinary Journey of Art and Friendship

“Elle” The New “Basic Instinct” with a “French Twist”

“My Life as a Zucchini” The Beautiful Animated Life of a Little Swiss Boy

“Neruda” Runaway Poet

“Colossal” Not Your Typical “Godzilla” Movie

MEXICO’S “THE NIGHT GUARD” WINS LA FILM FESTIVAL

15 Must-See French Films at COLCOA 2017

10 The Best Latino Performances of 2016 And Their Absence From The Nominations

Copyright © Festival in LA, 2016