Tuesday, February 18, 2020

MAKEUP & HAIRSTYLING - OSCAR WEEK 2020

José Alberto Hermosillo
Makeup & Hairstyling - Oscar Week www.FestivalinLA.com

For the 92nd Academy Awards, the Academy implemented a few new rules, such as increasing the number of nominated films in the Makeup & Hairstyling category from three to five. 

With more nominees, the competition is stimulating. However, the foundation of the category remained unchanged, considering the pre-established literary genres. They always like contemporary/drama, time-period/horror, and sci-fi/ fantasy.

After viewing the 344 seven-minute "baked-off reels" with clips highlighting the quality of Makeup & Hairstyling, members evaluate the eligibility and attributions of each film. Subsequently, the Academy will announce the shortlist of ten semi-finalists to name the five final movies on Nomination Day.

The Academy established the Makeup & Hairstyling branch in 1982. Recognizing the outstanding work of Rick Baker for the film "An American Werewolf in London" as the first Oscar winner.


Rick Baker is a legendary makeup artist and seven-time Oscar winner. His work includes an American Werewolf in Paris, Planet of the Apes, Men in Black, and Ed Wood. Photo: Gabriel Romero ©2019 Festival in LA

Since then, Mr. Baker has won six more times. His second Oscar was for "Harry and the Hendersons" in 1988. The extraordinary work he executed in Tim Burton's "Ed Wood" earned him his third award in 1994. He won again for "The Nutty Professor" in 1996, "Men in Black" in 1997, "How the Grinch Stole Christmas" in 2000, and "The Wolfman" in 2011.

Makeup & Hairstyling. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

And the nominees for Outstanding Makeup & Hairstyling are:

"Bombshell" Kazu Hiro, Anne Morgan, and Vivian Baker. (WINNER).
“Joker” Nicki Ledermann and Kay Georgiou
"Judy" Jeremy Woodhead
"Maleficent: Mistress of Evil" by Paul Gooch, Arjen Tuiten, and David White
"1917" Naomi Donne, Tristan Versluis, and Rebecca Cole
    Makeup & Hairstyling. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

    "Bombshell" 
    Oscar Winners:
    Kazu Hiro, Anne Morgan, and Vivian Baker

    "Bombshell" recounts the scandal over the sexual harassment charges against Roger Ailes, president of Fox News, by a group of female employees.

    The makeup department researched many books and photo files to recreate each character perfectly. Actors were a big help in achieving the desired look.

    Eye makeup was crucial in the creation of every character. The shape of the eyes was essential to give form and expression to the rest of the face. 

    The stunning haircuts and the dramatic prosthetics were vital in achieving the look. They defused the makeup with an airbrush, and this process was pre-established with digital technology and 3D prints.

    The team had three hours to apply the makeup to 90 different characters. They used heavy-forced makeup to accomplish the specific look of a "Barbie Doll" for some of the main actresses.
    Vivian Baker, Anne Morgan, Kazu Hiro, Makeup Artis nominees, Bombshell.  Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Bombshell makeup display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Bombshell makeup & hairstyling display Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Bombshell. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Bombshell. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Vivian Baker, Anne Morgan, Kazu Hiro, Makeup Artis nominees, Bombshell.  Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
      Kazu Hiro, Makeup Artis OSCAR WINNER for Bombshell.  Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

    "Joker"
    Oscar nominees:
    Nicki Ledermann and Kay Georgiou

    Inspired by Marvel's iconic arch-nemesis, "Joker" is the story of one of the most famous anti-heroes in literature. The film focuses on the character's psychology from its initial transformation into a public enemy.

     "Joker's" Oscar nomination for Best Makeup & Hairstyling can be academic, and the truth is that the creation of the character was much more complicated.

    The makeup & hair department spent months planning, logistics, and copyright clearances from the studio and the clown itself, which is a registered trademark.

    The collaboration between director Todd Phillips and actor Joaquin Phoenix achieved the Joker's final look. Joaquin lost so much weight that he made his characterization impeccable.

    Talented makeup artist Nicki Ledermann ("The Greatest Showman" and "The Irishman") spoke about the layers of makeup she had to apply to Joaquin's character and how she had to be aware of continuity. She used different products for the bloody scenes, including solvable or waterproof makeup.

    The Joker's hair demanded a very distinctive tone of green. Hairstylist Kay Georgiou went to the produce section of a nearby market and found the perfect broccoli green color.

    They applied wigs and makeup in 15 minutes every day. The clown makeup was used 30 days out of the 60 days of the shooting schedule.

    Nicki Ledermann, makeup artist nominee, Joker. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Joker's hair's color is broccoli green.  
    Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
     Joker makeup & hairstyling display.  
    Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Joker makeup & hairstyling display. 
     Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
     Joker makeup & hairstyling display.  
    Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Joker makeup & hairstyling display.  
    Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
     "Joker" makeup & hairstyling, Oscar nominee.  
    Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Nicki Ledermann, makeup artist nominee, Joker. Film critic José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

    "Judy" 
    Oscar nominee: 
    Jeremy Woodhead

    "Judy" is the tumultuous biopic of Judy Garland that focuses on her last trip to London in 1968. Renée Zellweger gives an Oscar-worthy performance portraying the legendary actress of "The Wizard of Oz."

    In charge of the stupendous makeup & hairstyling design is Jeremy Woodhead. For the characterization, he used prosthetics, wigs, and contact lenses. The makeup transformation of Renée into Judy took two hours daily with staggering results.
    Judy display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Judy display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

    "Maleficent: Mistress of Evil" 
    Oscar nominees: 
    Paul Gooch, Arjen Tuiten, and David White

    In Disney's "Maleficent: Mistress of Evil," the dark forces doomed the family ties between Maleficent and her goddaughter, Princess Aurora. New allies and evil characters will try to impede the nuptials. Envy, ambition, and prejudices play a big part in this fantastic flick.

    The design of the makeup & hairstyling of "Maleficent: Mistress of Evil" required prosthetics, hair, horns, and a good foundation. The entire composition took two to five hours to apply to most actors. 

    The design of the faces had to match the environment harmoniously. They camouflaged their appearance with fur and feathers accordingly.

    The most challenging task for the makeup department was continuity. They had to match one take to the other during the dramatic scenes. For Angelina's lips, forty shades of red were not good enough; she wanted a more specific type of red. 

    The makeup department paid close attention to detail. The hands and nails of the female characters were oil paintings. For the male characters, they used silicone prosthetics.
    Arjen Tuiten, makeup artist nominee. Maleficent: Mistress of Evil. 
    Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Maleficent: Mistress of Evil. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Maleficent: Mistress of Evil. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
      Maleficent: Mistress of Evil. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Maleficent: Mistress of Evil makeup display. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Maleficent: Mistress of Evil. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Arjen Tuiten is a makeup artist nominee for Maleficent: Mistress of Evil.  Film critic José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA

    "1917" 
    Oscar nominees: 
    Naomi Donne, Tristan Versluis, and Rebecca Cole

    In "1917," two young soldiers were commissioned to deliver a crucial message to the front line to save hundreds on April 6, 1917, during WW I. As the story progresses in this war movie, the challenges for the makeup and hair department are enormous. 

    The makeup artists went to the Imperial War Museum in London to research the human anatomy and composition of the diverse ethnicities represented in the film to get the facts. They did an exhaustive examination of medical books and photographs, focusing on facial and body hair, broken teeth, and even how the soldiers bled. Coincidentally, the British Museum was founded in 1917 as well.

    The film unfolds in one take. In reality, the filmmakers did it in 30 continuous shots. The makeup crew had a short time to work with the actors for the bleeding scenes, and they built a rig to automatically pump the blood on cue under their uniforms.

    Another fascinating challenge in the makeup process was the use of the "blending point." The blending point is a technique used in movies to camouflage editing. In an epic war flick such as "1917," the makeup department had to utilize this approach to make dead characters turn "blue" in real-time and on a large scale to make this movie as realistic as possible.
    1917 makeup display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    1917 makeup display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    1917 makeup display. Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    "1917" dental implants, makeup display. Photo José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Photo: José Alberto Hermosillo ©2019 Festival in LA
    Naomi Donne is an Oscar nominee for "1917."
     Photo: Gabriel Romero ©2019 Festival in LA
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